Retrofitting a projector into a housing that was never designed for one is where the real fun begins, and the Morimoto Mini H1 6.0 retrofit into 9006, 9007, H11, and H13 headlights is a perfect example. Unlike H4 or H7 housings, these headlights present a couple of extra challenges that catch a lot of first-timers off guard. In this guide we walk through exactly what we did on the bench, from grinding down the reflector base to setting rotation by hand, so you can get a clean, level beam pattern without an adapter plate doing the work for you.
Why These Housings Are Different
The first thing we always do once the headlight is fully disassembled and the reflector is pulled out is compare it directly to the Mini H1 projector. On almost any housing that is not an H4 or H7 application, such as a 9006, H13, or H11, the depth of the reflector base (the butt of the reflector where the bulb mounts) is simply too much for the threaded shaft on the projector to fit through. If the shaft cannot pass through, you cannot get the lock ring back on, and the whole install stalls right there.
So on a retrofit like this, anything but an H4 or H7, you need to grind down the depth of that reflector base so you can thin up the very back half of it. The goal is to leave as much space as possible for the lock ring and the bulb holder to seat back onto the projector. Sometimes a little grinding is even required on H4 and H7 retrofits, but in those cases you still have the benefit of using the adapter plate, which we do not get here.
Modifying the Reflector Base
To open up the clearance we need, we reach for one of two tools: a belt sander or a Dremel. In this build we used a belt sander simply because it is the easiest way to do it if you have one on hand. The Dremel works just fine too, it just takes a bit longer and a little more patience to get an even result.
Once we have the reflector modified with the base ground down, we like to set it next to the original for a quick sanity check. You can see the untouched reflector is still much deeper. After grinding, we finally have enough depth to fit the threaded shaft from the Mini projector through, put the hardware on, and lock it down.
Mounting the Mini H1 6.0 Projector
Remove the Bulb Holder First
To get the threaded shaft through the reflector, we first need to take the three-prong bulb holder off the back of the Mini projector. Usually it is as easy as removing a single screw. Loosen it, set the screw aside, and then you can pass the projector through from the front side of the reflector.
Add the Grommet and Support Plate
Before you push the projector through, drop one of the rubber grommets in place. We tend to use the larger grommet here, but you really just have to feel it out to see whether the bigger or smaller one seats best in your particular housing. Push that through from the front side, then add the adapter plate on the back.
This is an H7 adapter plate, and for the purpose of this retrofit it is really just serving as extra support on the reflector. It gives us a little more surface area behind the modified base, but keep in mind it does not automatically set rotation the way it would in an H4 or H7 based application. That distinction matters, and we will come back to rotation shortly.
Thread On the Hex Lock Ring
With the plate on the back, we thread on the hex lock ring. Take your time here because the threads are a little soft. When you tighten them all the way down, they are made to deform so that the ring locks itself in place permanently. That is by design, not a defect, so you only get one real shot at cranking it fully home.
Because of that, we only hand tighten the lock ring when we first start. You are almost certainly going to need to adjust the rotation of the projector afterward, since we are not using any adapter plate that sets rotation automatically. Hand tight keeps your options open. When you are ready for final assembly, though, you must get the lock ring down all the way. That is the only way the three feet on the bulb holder can drop all the way back into the channels on the back of the projector.
Reinstall the Bulb Holder
Once the lock ring is fully seated, we reinstall the three-prong bulb holder. This step is not just cosmetic. If those three prongs do not sink completely into the projector channels, the bulb will not line up perfectly inside the projector, and your beam pattern and light output will be thrown off. Seat them fully and reattach the screw.
Setting Rotation Without an Adapter Plate
Here is the second big challenge with 9006, 9007, H11, and H13 housings: there is no adapter plate to set your rotation for you, so alignment has to be done manually. There are two approaches we rely on. The first is to use reference lines on the reflector. When you tighten the projector down, make sure its horizontal reference matches those lines. That way, when everything goes back on the car, the beam sits level.
The second method is our go-to when we want to fine-tune after the fact. Leave the lock ring only semi-tight, then once the reflector is back in the housing you can grab the projector from the front (before you put the front lens cover back on) and manually rotate it just a couple of degrees clockwise or counterclockwise to dial in the rotation. You will need the lights on for that so you can watch the cutoff, but it gives you precise control.
After you have the rotation where you want it, reinstall the bulb holder if you have not already, drop in the Xenon bulb, and power it up to confirm the beam pattern is perfectly level. Once you are happy, put your shrouds back on and reassemble everything for the final time. That is really all a retrofit into a non H4 or H7 headlight entails: grind for clearance, mount securely, and set rotation by hand.
Powering and Finishing the Build
Since these housings run a Xenon setup, clean power delivery matters. We always recommend running a dedicated harness so your projector gets consistent voltage and your factory wiring is not overloaded. An H1 HD relay harness is the right companion for this kind of build, and if you want to understand exactly why that matters, check out our guide to HID relay harnesses. Pairing the projector with a proper ignition source like the H1 Elite HID System keeps everything running the way it should.
On the cosmetic side, the shroud is what dresses up the front of the projector once everything is buttoned back together. You can browse our full lineup of projector shrouds to find a look that fits your housing, and enthusiasts who want something with a distinctive face often look at Mini Turbine projector shrouds as well. And if your project calls for a larger optic than the 6.0, you can step up to the Morimoto Mini H1 9.0 projector retrofit using many of the same techniques we covered here.
Frequently Asked Questions
Why do 9006, 9007, H11, and H13 headlights require extra work for a Mini H1 6.0 retrofit?
Because unlike H4 or H7 headlights, these housings have a deeper reflector base that blocks the projector’s threaded shaft from fitting through, so the reflector must be ground down.
What tools are needed to modify the reflector?
A belt sander or a Dremel tool can be used to grind down the back of the reflector to create clearance for the projector shaft.
How is the projector aligned since there’s no adapter plate for these housings?
You can use reference lines on the reflector to match the projector’s horizontal orientation, or leave the lock ring semi-tight and manually rotate the projector from the front before final assembly.
What is the purpose of the H7 adapter plate in this type of retrofit?
It provides extra support and surface area on the modified reflector, though it does not automatically set rotation as it would in an H4 or H7 retrofit.
Why is it important to fully tighten the hex lock ring?
So the three prongs of the bulb holder can seat completely into the projector’s channels, ensuring proper bulb alignment and correct beam pattern.
Meet the Experts Behind The Retrofit Source
Tyler Jordan – Technical Writer
Tyler works directly with the TRS product R&D team, bringing over a decade of automotive aftermarket lighting experience to every article. An avid enthusiast with hundreds of personal installations under his belt, his content is built on hands-on knowledge from the workbench, not spec sheets.
Caleb Morgan – Marketing Manager
Caleb brings over a decade of automotive lighting industry experience and works with TRS customers daily on the front lines. With hundreds of personal lighting installations and a direct feedback loop from real buyers, his content addresses the questions and problems that actually matter.
