Upgrading the halogen projector headlights on a modern SUV is one of the most satisfying lighting jobs we do here at the shop, and today we tackled a brand new Range Rover Evoque with the Morimoto Elite HID System. This kit takes a factory halogen projector and gives it a clean, pure white output without any of the guesswork. In this guide we walk through every component in the box, explain why we chose the CANbus wiring option, and show exactly how we installed everything on a sealed headlight housing. If you have been on the fence about converting your factory projectors, this is the walkthrough for you.
What Comes in the Morimoto Elite HID System Kit
Before we touch a single bolt, we always lay out the kit so we know exactly what we are working with. The Morimoto Elite HID System kit includes bulbs, ballasts, mounting brackets, hardware, wiring, and a test lead. Everything you need for a complete conversion is right there in the box, which is one of the reasons we recommend this system to first time installers as well as seasoned enthusiasts.
The first item we pulled out was the bulbs. This install uses a 9005 bulb rated at 5000K for a pure white output. That color temperature is our sweet spot for a factory looking upgrade, giving you a crisp white beam without drifting into the blue or purple tones that some cheaper kits produce. If you want to compare how HID color renders against LED options, we broke it down in our our HID vs LED D2S bulb comparison.
Ballasts and Power Options
Next up are the ballasts, which are the power supplies for the HID bulbs. Ballasts are available in 35 watt or 55 watt versions, with 35 watt used in this install. The 35 watt units are the standard choice and produce plenty of light for a projector based system, while the 55 watt option delivers more raw output for those who want the absolute maximum. Alongside the ballasts you get mounting brackets and hardware to secure everything cleanly in the engine bay or, as we found on this Evoque, tucked inside the headlight shell.
Wiring: Relay Harness vs Standalone CANbus
Two wiring options are offered, a heavy duty relay harness or a Standalone CANbus harness. The relay harness pulls power directly from the battery through a relay triggered by your factory bulb signal, and it is a great choice on vehicles that do not throw errors. On this Range Rover, though, the Standalone CANbus harness is chosen here to cancel the lamp out warning on the vehicle. Modern European SUVs are notorious for reading the lower current draw of an HID system as a burned out bulb, and the CANbus harness solves that instantly.
The very last thing in the kit is the test lead. The test lead is only used for troubleshooting and provides direct power from the battery through the ballast. You will not touch it during a normal installation. It is essentially a pigtail with two bare ends that lets you feed direct battery power into a ballast so you can confirm whether a bulb or ballast is functioning if you ever run into an issue. Keep it in your parts drawer, because it can save you a lot of diagnostic time down the road.
Removing the Headlights on the Range Rover Evoque
For this particular job we took the headlights completely off the vehicle. That is not always necessary, and on many cars you can complete this conversion with the headlight still in place. We removed them here purely for demonstration purposes so you can clearly see what is happening on the back side of the housing. If you want a broader look at the factory setup before you order parts, take a look at our Range Rover Evoque halogen headlight upgrade guide for the exact fitment details.
Once the headlights are off the car, you will find one of two situations on the back of the housing. Either the bulb is easily accessible right on the back, or the housing is sealed up with a plastic cap. On this Evoque, the housing was sealed. This is common on premium vehicles where the factory wants to keep moisture and debris out of the optics.
Drilling the Sealed Housing for Wire Access
Sealed headlight housings require drilling a 7/8 inch hole to route wiring and reseal with a rubber cap. This step sounds intimidating, but it is straightforward as long as you measure carefully and drill slowly. The 7/8 inch opening gives you enough room to pass the HID bulb cables through the back of the cap, and the included rubber grommet seals the hole afterward to keep the housing watertight.
Generally speaking, the ballast and wiring live outside of the headlight shell. In this case, though, we actually had enough room inside the housing to tuck the components in, which made for an even cleaner result. Because we routed everything internally on this build, we did not need to drill the cap the way we normally would, and instead plugged directly into the existing space. Every vehicle is a little different, so evaluate your available room before committing to a drilling location.
Wiring the HID System Together
With access sorted, we started the electrical work by removing the original halogen bulb from the power pigtail that feeds it. That factory pigtail plugs directly into the Standalone CANbus harness, and the harness then connects into the ballast to provide power. From the ballast, the high voltage outputs run to the inputs on the HID bulb. It is a clean plug and play chain: factory connector to CANbus harness, harness to ballast, ballast to bulb.
One small tip from our bench: the 9005 bulb has a factory style cable on it that we do not need for this configuration. Rather than let it take up extra space inside the tight housing, we cut off the end and pulled it through so it was out of the way. That kind of small detail keeps the finished install looking tidy and prevents rattles or pinched wires later.
Cleaning and Installing the Bulb
Here is a step that far too many people skip. Bulbs must be cleaned with alcohol pads before installation to remove contaminants from the glass. Any oil from your fingers left on the quartz envelope can create a hot spot and shorten the life of the bulb. We wiped ours down thoroughly with the provided alcohol pads, made sure the glass was perfectly clean, and only then rotated the bulb into the housing.
Once the bulb was seated and locked into place, we buttoned the housing back up, reinstalled the headlights, and powered everything on. The result was exactly what we hoped for: a bright, even, pure white beam with zero dash warnings thanks to the CANbus harness doing its job.
Other Elite HID Fitments Worth Knowing
The Elite lineup is not limited to the 9005 bulb we used here. If your vehicle runs a different projector, Morimoto offers matching kits across the common bulb sizes. For factory HID projectors, the D2S Elite HID System is the drop in choice, and you can read more about it on Morimoto’s own D2S Elite system page. For many halogen projector applications, the H11 Elite HID kit is the right fit, and our friends carry the H11 Elite HID System at Headlight Revolution as well. Matching the right bulb size to your housing is the single most important step before ordering.
Final Thoughts on the Morimoto Elite HID System
After completing this install, we are confident recommending the Morimoto Elite HID System for anyone with halogen projector headlights who wants a genuine upgrade in light output and color. The 5000K pure white beam looks fantastic, the 35 watt ballasts are more than enough for a projector, and the Standalone CANbus harness makes error free operation on picky vehicles like the Range Rover Evoque effortless. Take your time on the housing prep, clean your bulbs, and route your wiring cleanly, and you will end up with a professional result that looks like it came from the factory.
Frequently Asked Questions
What bulb type does the Morimoto Elite HID System use in this Evoque install?
The kit uses a 9005 bulb rated at 5000K for a pure white output.
What is the difference between the 35 watt and 55 watt ballast options?
Both ballasts power the HID bulbs, but the 55 watt option provides more output while the 35 watt is the standard choice used in this install.
Why choose the Standalone CANbus harness over the heavy duty relay harness?
The Standalone CANbus harness is used when the vehicle needs to cancel a lamp out warning that would otherwise appear with a standard HID conversion.
What is the test lead used for in the Morimoto Elite HID kit?
The test lead is a pigtail with two bare ends used only for troubleshooting, allowing you to plug into the ballast and provide direct power from the battery.
Do you always need to drill into the headlight housing for this install?
Not always. Some housings have easily accessible bulb access, but sealed housings like the one shown require a 7/8 inch hole to pass the wiring through and reseal with a rubber cap.
Meet the Experts Behind The Retrofit Source
Tyler Jordan – Technical Writer
Tyler works directly with the TRS product R&D team, bringing over a decade of automotive aftermarket lighting experience to every article. An avid enthusiast with hundreds of personal installations under his belt, his content is built on hands-on knowledge from the workbench, not spec sheets.
Caleb Morgan – Marketing Manager
Caleb brings over a decade of automotive lighting industry experience and works with TRS customers daily on the front lines. With hundreds of personal lighting installations and a direct feedback loop from real buyers, his content addresses the questions and problems that actually matter.
