When upgrading factory halogens or replacing an aging HID system, the Morimoto Elite kit offers plenty of flexibility. With several ballast, bulb, and wiring options, it is easy to get lost in the configurator. We put this system on the bench and installed the components ourselves. Now, we can break everything down in plain language. This guide explains what each part does and why you might choose one option over another. We will also cover which accessories actually matter for your build.
The Heart of the Kit: Ballast Options
At the center of every Elite HID system is the ballast. This is the component that takes your vehicle’s 12 volt power and converts it into the high voltage needed to strike and sustain the arc inside an HID bulb. The Morimoto Elite kit gives you two ballast choices, and understanding the difference is the first decision you will make.
The standard equipment is the XB35, which is a 35 watt ballast. There is also an XB55, which is a 50 watt version. Here is the part that surprises most people: the XB55 does not cost any more than the XB35. It produces roughly 20 percent more light, but that extra output comes at the expense of lifespan. The XB35 is rated for five years, while the XB55 is rated for three years, simply because running at 50 watts generates more heat. That is the give and take. If you want maximum output and do not mind replacing the ballast sooner, the XB55 is a compelling free upgrade. If you want the longest possible service life, stick with the XB35.
Why the Separate Igniter Matters
One of the details we really appreciate about these ballasts is that the igniters are actually separate. This is more like an original equipment ballast design. There are not many aftermarket ballasts that use separate igniters, and even fewer that make them removable from the ballast body. The igniter is the part that produces the high voltage that runs the bulb.
Why does this matter to you? In the rare case that something does go bad, we can send you a replacement igniter and you do not have to replace the entire ballast system. It also makes troubleshooting and serviceability easier, because you can isolate whether a problem lives in the ballast or the igniter. You will see an option for igniters in the kit, but it is not really optional. It is standard equipment. You do need the igniter to run the bulb, so it comes along with every kit.
Choosing Your Bulb Color: Kelvin Explained
With the ballast sorted, the next decision is the bulb itself, specifically the Kelvin rating. Kelvin describes the color temperature of the light, and we always offer at least three options: 4500K, 5500K, and 6500K.
Any vehicle that came with HID headlights from the factory typically runs something around 4500K. This is basically a warm white light, and it produces a ton of lumens, roughly 3,400. If you want that authentic OEM look and maximum brightness, 4500K is the pick.
The 5500K option is a more pure, neutral white. It increases contrast while driving at night without drastically reducing the total lumens coming out of the headlight. This is by far the most popular Kelvin rating we sell, and for good reason. It looks clean and modern while keeping performance high.
Finally, 6500K is still mostly a pure white but with a very slight tinge of blue to it. If you want a slightly more unique look without compromising too much performance, this is the one. We deliberately do not offer anything above 6500K. We do not want to trade away useful light output just for looks. So you will not find 8000K or 10000K options in the Morimoto Elite HID system. Those higher color temperatures look flashy but leave you with headlights that are not really that useful anymore.
The Elite system is available in a wide range of bulb types to fit different housings, so make sure you select the correct one for your vehicle. If you are working with a common single beam projector application, you might be looking at the H11 Elite HID System. For OEM style HID retrofits, the D2S Elite HID kit is a popular direct fit. And if your vehicle uses that bulb type, the 9012 Elite HID System covers that application as well. You can also review Morimoto’s H9 Elite HID listing and Headlight Revolution’s H16 kit if those bulb sizes match your housings.
Wiring It All Together: Harness Options
The last main component of the kit is the wire harness, and there are two options. This is where a lot of the confusion happens, so we want to be clear about which one you actually need.
Most applications will be just fine with the HD relay harness. This one uses actual traditional relays. It runs to the car battery, gets grounded, and then delivers clean power to the ballasts through a full relay wire harness. This is the setup we recommend for the majority of vehicles because it draws power directly from the battery rather than relying on potentially weak factory wiring.
The other option, which is admittedly a bit simpler, is the standalone canbus harness. The standalone canbus relies on the factory wiring of the car to provide power to the ballast. It uses capacitors and resistors and is mainly meant for a lot of European vehicles that have lamp out warnings you need to cancel. We do not really recommend this harness unless you actually need it, and whether you need it depends entirely on whether your vehicle throws lamp out errors. If you drive a European car that complains about a burned out bulb after a conversion, this is the harness that solves that problem.
Optional Accessories Worth Understanding
Beyond the core components, there are a couple of optional accessories that sometimes confuse buyers. We want to walk through them so you know exactly when they apply.
Anti-Flicker Capacitor Link
The first is the anti-flicker capacitor link. You would never use this in conjunction with the standalone canbus harness. You only use it with the HD relay harness. A lot of modern cars, like some Chevy trucks for example, use pulse width modulation coming from their factory headlight circuit. That pulse signal translates into the relays and causes the headlights to flash unless you add a capacitor link. So if your vehicle uses a pulse signal to run the headlight circuit, you will need the anti-flicker capacitor link paired with the HD relay harness to keep everything running steady.
Carbon Fiber Ballast Bracket
The very last item is a carbon fiber replacement bracket for the Morimoto ballast. The kits come standard with a painted stainless steel bracket, which does the job perfectly well. The carbon fiber version is merely a cosmetic upgrade. It does not do anything for performance, and it is not required. It is all glitz. That said, it does look cool if you have an engine bay you like to show off.
Putting It All Together
As you can see, the Morimoto Elite HID system gives you a full range of options: two ballast choices at the same price, three bulb Kelvin ratings, two harness types, and a couple of optional accessories for specific situations. The system is deliberately built to avoid gimmicks that hurt performance, which is why you will not find anything above 6500K here.
If you are unsure exactly what is best for your vehicle, you can always use the buyer’s guide at the top of the product page. Just put in your year, make, and model, add your preferences, and it will pop out exactly the right components for your application. And if you are still weighing whether HID is even the right path for you, take a look at our guide comparing HID and LED D2S bulbs before you commit. HID technology still holds its own in many applications, and the Elite system is one of the most refined kits we have tested.
Frequently Asked Questions
What are the two ballast options in the Morimoto Elite HID system?
The kit offers the standard XB35 ballast (35 watt, rated for 5 years) and the XB55 (50 watt, producing about 20 percent more light but rated for only 3 years because it runs hotter). Both cost the same.
Why are the igniters separate from the ballasts?
Morimoto uses a design similar to OEM systems where the igniter, which produces the high voltage for the bulb, is separate and removable from the ballast. This makes replacement and troubleshooting easier if one part fails.
What Kelvin color temperature options are available?
The system offers 4500K (a warm white similar to factory HID output, about 3400 lumens), 5500K (a neutral white and the most popular option), and 6500K (white with a slight blue tinge). Nothing above 6500K is offered to preserve performance.
What is the difference between the HD relay harness and the standalone canbus harness?
The HD relay harness uses traditional relays wired to the battery and ground to power the ballasts. The standalone canbus harness instead relies on the vehicle’s factory wiring along with capacitors and resistors, and is mainly used on European vehicles that require lamp-out warning cancellation.
When is the anti-flicker capacitor link needed?
The anti-flicker capacitor link is needed only when using the HD relay harness on vehicles whose headlight circuits use pulse width modulation, such as some Chevy trucks, to prevent the headlights from flashing.
Meet the Experts Behind The Retrofit Source
Tyler Jordan – Technical Writer
Tyler works directly with the TRS product R&D team, bringing over a decade of automotive aftermarket lighting experience to every article. An avid enthusiast with hundreds of personal installations under his belt, his content is built on hands-on knowledge from the workbench, not spec sheets.
Caleb Morgan – Marketing Manager
Caleb brings over a decade of automotive lighting industry experience and works with TRS customers daily on the front lines. With hundreds of personal lighting installations and a direct feedback loop from real buyers, his content addresses the questions and problems that actually matter.
