When it comes to picking the right projector for a retrofit, size and install difficulty matter just as much as raw performance. In this bi-LED projector comparison, we put three popular options side by side: the FX-R 3.0 with a 3 inch lens, the FX-R 3.0 with a 2.5 inch lens, and the Morimoto Mini H1 bi-xenon projector. Andrew from our team walked through each one to highlight the differences in size, mounting, and light output so you can decide which projector best fits your build and your comfort level with retrofitting.
Three Projectors, One Head-to-Head
We lined up all three units on the bench for this comparison, and the first thing that jumps out is the difference in physical size. The FX-R 3.0 with the 3 inch lens is clearly the largest of the bunch, the 2.5 inch FX-R 3.0 sits in the middle, and the Mini H1 is the most compact of the three. Before we get into the finer points of each, it is worth remembering that the two FX-R 3.0 variants are the same projector at heart. The only thing that changes between them is the lens.
FX-R 3.0: 3 Inch vs 2.5 Inch Lens
This is the question we get asked the most, so let us clear it up right away. The 3 inch and 2.5 inch FX-R 3.0 projectors share the exact same body. Performance is identical between the two. There is no light output gain from choosing one lens over the other. The only difference is aesthetic. The 3 inch lens gives you a larger, more filling look inside the headlight housing, which is ideal if you are working with a bigger headlight and want that lens to really fill the space.
So when should you pick the 2.5 inch lens? If your headlight is on the smaller side or you simply prefer a more subtle look, the 2.5 inch version gives you the same beam performance in a slightly less imposing package. Just keep in mind the body is the same size regardless of which lens you choose, so the space savings come from the lens diameter, not the overall footprint of the projector.
Meet the Morimoto Mini H1
The Mini H1 has been a staple in the retrofit world for a long time, and for good reason. It is the smallest of the three projectors we tested, which makes it the go-to option when you are fighting for space inside a slim headlight housing. If you have a tight headlight and the FX-R 3.0 simply will not physically fit, the Mini H1 may be your only realistic choice.
If you want to dig into the full spec sheet, check out the Morimoto Mini H1 Stage III Bi-Xenon Projector product page. You can also find the Mini H1 Stage III kit on MorimotoHID or take a look at Headlight Revolution’s Mini H1 Stage III listing if you want to compare availability across retailers.
Size Matters: Fitment Considerations
Size is the single biggest deciding factor for a lot of retrofitters, and it should be near the top of your list too. The FX-R 3.0 is significantly larger than the Mini H1, which means it demands more interior headlight space to fit properly. If you have a very slim headlight, you may not be able to fit the FX-R 3.0 at all, and that is where the smaller Mini H1 becomes the practical answer.
Before you commit to a projector, we always recommend mocking up your headlight or at least measuring the available depth and width inside the housing. The 3 inch FX-R 3.0 in particular needs plenty of room, so if you are unsure whether it will clear, it is worth planning ahead. If you are still exploring your options, you can browse universal projector retrofit kits to see what bundles are available for your setup.
Mounting and Installation Differences
Here is where the FX-R 3.0 and the Mini H1 really diverge, and it is an important consideration if you are choosing based on install difficulty. The Mini H1 uses a threaded shaft at the rear of the projector. That threaded design makes it straightforward to mount, since you can secure it through a bracket or shroud with a nut. This is one of the reasons the Mini H1 remains such a beginner friendly option.
The FX-R 3.0 does not share that same rear design. It does not have a threaded shaft, which means you cannot simply thread and lock it into place. Instead, you have to glue it in or bolt it in with an alternative mounting method. This adds a layer of difficulty to the install and requires more planning and patience to get the projector locked in at the correct angle.
Because of that mounting difference, small adjustments during the FX-R 3.0 install can throw off the beam performance immensely. A tiny error in how you set the projector angle can make a big difference in the final output, so precision really matters here. That is not something to be afraid of, but it does mean you want to take your time and be deliberate with your setup.
Performance: Width and Intensity
When we compared the beam output, the FX-R 3.0 delivered a little bit better performance overall in both width and intensity compared to the Mini H1. It is a meaningful step up if you want the most out of your retrofit and you have the space and the skill to install it correctly. In our opinion, the performance gain is definitely worth the increased install difficulty for the right person.
That said, both projectors are strong performers, and the Mini H1 remains a reliable, proven option that puts out a clean, usable beam. The FX-R 3.0 just edges it out when everything is dialed in perfectly. If you want to see how a range of projectors stack up, our team put together our full bi-LED head-to-head testing for a broader look at the field.
Which Projector Is Right for You?
Choosing between these three really comes down to your experience level, your headlight size, and how much you want to squeeze out of your retrofit. If you are just starting out with retrofits, we recommend the Mini H1. It is easier to mount thanks to that threaded shaft, it fits in tighter spaces, and it lets you get comfortable with the process before you tackle something more demanding.
If you are already comfortable with retrofits and you have the headlight space to work with, the FX-R 3.0 is well worth the step up. You get slightly better width and intensity, and you can choose between the 2.5 inch and 3 inch lens purely based on how you want it to look in your housing. Just remember that the FX-R 3.0 asks more of you during the install, and small adjustment errors can throw off performance in a big way.
If you are exploring bi-LED options beyond these, you might also want to look at the Morimoto M LED 2.0 Bi-LED Projectors as another point of reference for your build. Whatever you choose, measure your housing, plan your mounting method, and take your time with the adjustment for the best results.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the difference between the FX-R 3.0 with a 2.5 inch lens and the 3 inch lens version?
The bodies and performance are identical. The only difference is lens size, which affects how well the projector fills a headlight housing aesthetically.
How does the FX-R 3.0 perform compared to the Morimoto Mini H1?
The FX-R 3.0 offers slightly better performance in width and intensity than the Mini H1, though it is larger and more involved to install.
Which projector is easier to install?
The Mini H1 is easier to install because it has a threaded shaft at the rear. The FX-R 3.0 lacks this design and must be glued or bolted in instead.
Which projector is better for someone new to retrofitting?
The Mini H1 is recommended for beginners. The FX-R 3.0 is better suited for those already comfortable with retrofits since small adjustments can significantly affect its output.
Does headlight size affect which projector to choose?
Yes. The FX-R 3.0, especially with the 3 inch lens, is much larger and may not fit a slim headlight housing, in which case the smaller Mini H1 may be the only option.
Meet the Experts Behind The Retrofit Source
Tyler Jordan – Technical Writer
Tyler works directly with the TRS product R&D team, bringing over a decade of automotive aftermarket lighting experience to every article. An avid enthusiast with hundreds of personal installations under his belt, his content is built on hands-on knowledge from the workbench, not spec sheets.
Caleb Morgan – Marketing Manager
Caleb brings over a decade of automotive lighting industry experience and works with TRS customers daily on the front lines. With hundreds of personal lighting installations and a direct feedback loop from real buyers, his content addresses the questions and problems that actually matter.
