Upgrading both the projector lens and HID bulb in your Nissan 370Z produces dramatically sharper and brighter output compared to the decade-old stock setup. If your 370Z headlights look hazy, yellowed, or dim, a 370Z headlight lens replacement is one of the most effective upgrades you can do at home. In this guide, we walk through the complete process of replacing your factory lenses with Morimoto clear replacements, upgrading your projector optics with STi-R clear projector lenses, swapping in fresh Philips XV2 D2S HID bulbs, and installing Profile Pivot switchback halos for a complete lighting transformation.
Why Your 370Z Headlight Lenses Need Replacing
The Nissan 370Z has been in production since 2009, and even well-maintained examples suffer from lens degradation over time. UV exposure breaks down the polycarbonate outer lens, causing a yellowed, hazy appearance that scatters light instead of projecting it forward. The result is significantly reduced output from headlights that were already modest by modern standards.
Beyond the outer lens, the stock Koito fresnel projector lens inside the headlight also limits performance. Fresnel lenses use a ridged surface pattern that diffuses light to soften the beam cutoff. While that smooths out hotspots, it costs you raw intensity on the road. Replacing it with a clear lens upgrade removes that compromise entirely. Combined with the outer lens swap, you recover output that has been degrading for over a decade.
This project is also the perfect opportunity to add LED halos and strips while the headlight is apart. The Profile Pivot switchback halos deliver a modern DRL look with integrated turn signal functionality, and installing them alongside a lens replacement adds minimal extra time since the housing is already open.
Parts and Tools for This Project
Here is what you need to complete the full lens replacement and halo install. All parts are available from The Retrofit Source’s 370Z lighting catalog.
Primary parts: Morimoto 370Z replacement headlight lenses (clear), STi-R 3-inch clear projector lens with paper spacers (optional), Philips XV2 D2S HID bulbs in 5000K (optional), Profile Pivot 90mm switchback halos, Morimoto RetroRubber butyl sealant, and LED Concepts halo installation wire.
Tools: Phillips head screwdriver, flat blade screwdriver, Morimoto seal splitter, oven (household), 1/16-inch drill bit and drill, Exacto knife, wire cutters, zip ties, duct tape, and a pair of Morimoto Multi-Cam work gloves to avoid fingerprints on optical surfaces.
Optional accessories include Profile SmokeRings if you want a smoked halo cover look instead of the exposed LED ring. Profile Pivot halos use Hybrid-LED technology with a rated 50,000-hour lifespan, so they are a true long-term upgrade.
How Much Brighter Are Upgraded Lenses and Bulbs?
Before getting into the install steps, here is what you gain from the optics upgrades. The brightness improvement from upgrading both the projector lens and HID bulb is immediately visible on a wall shot, and it is one of the primary reasons to open these headlights in the first place.
Stock Fresnel Lens vs STi-R Clear Lens
The stock Koito 3-inch fresnel lens produces a diffused beam with a soft cutoff line. After swapping in the STi-R clear lens (using the same aged bulb), the beam becomes noticeably sharper and more concentrated. The cutoff line tightens up significantly, and you can even see an exotic color flicker along the upper edge of the beam, which is a characteristic of clear optical glass. More light reaches the road instead of scattering inside the housing.
Aged D2S Bulb vs Philips XV2
HID bulbs degrade over time. A D2S bulb with ten years of use can drop to roughly 50% of its original light output. The Philips XV2 in 5000K restores full luminosity and adds a clean white color temperature that pairs well with the clear projector lens. The improvement is dramatic when you combine fresh bulbs with clear optics, since you are recovering output lost in two places at once.
The combined result of a clear projector lens plus new HID bulbs is a headlight that performs like it did on day one (or better). If your 370Z headlights feel weak at night, these two upgrades inside the housing are worth more than any exterior lens polish or restoration kit.
Complete Install Guide: 370Z Headlight Lens Replacement and Halo Install
This guide covers the entire process from oven to reassembly. Each step follows the exact procedure shown in our workshop video. Take your time with heat-related steps and avoid touching optical surfaces with bare hands once they are clean.
Step 1: Preheat Oven to 260 Degrees Fahrenheit
Set your household oven to 260°F and let it reach temperature before putting anything inside. This is critical: you want the oven at a steady temperature with the heating elements off. If the elements cycle on while the headlight is inside, the direct radiant heat can melt or warp the housing. Preheat fully, then turn the elements off before inserting the headlight.
Step 2: Remove Headlights from the Car
Remove both headlight assemblies from the vehicle. On the 370Z, this involves cutting duct tape seals, slicing zip ties, disconnecting wiring harnesses, and removing the mounting bolts. This process varies slightly by model year, so consult a vehicle-specific removal guide if this is your first time pulling 370Z headlights.
Step 3: Remove Phillips Head Screws Around Housing Perimeter
Flip the headlight over and locate all the Phillips head screws around the outside perimeter of the housing. Every screw needs to come out before you attempt to separate the lens. Count them as you go so you know exactly how many to reinstall later.
Step 4: Bake Headlight in Preheated Oven for Exactly 5 Minutes
Place the headlight in the preheated oven (heating elements OFF) for exactly 5 minutes. This softens the factory butyl sealant holding the lens to the housing. Do not exceed 5 minutes, and do not leave the oven unattended. Set a timer.
Step 5: Pry Old Lens Off Housing
Working quickly while the sealant is soft, start at the corner near the mounting tab and use a flat blade screwdriver combined with the Morimoto seal splitter to work around the edge. Watch for retaining clips as you go. The seal splitter makes this much easier than a screwdriver alone, and it reduces the risk of cracking the housing.
Step 6: (Optional) Upgrade Projector Lens to STi-R 3-Inch Clear Lens
With the outer lens removed, you now have access to the projector assembly inside. The stock Koito fresnel lens limits your beam quality, and this is the ideal time to swap it for a STi-R clear projector lens. The STi-R lens comes with paper spacers that position the lens at the optimal focal distance for maximum output.
Step 7: (Optional) Upgrade D2S HID Bulbs to Philips XV2
While you have access, swap out the stock D2S HID bulbs. After a decade of use, your original bulbs may be running at roughly half their rated output. The Philips XV2 in 5000K delivers significantly more luminosity with a clean white color temperature. This is a simple bulb swap that compounds the gains from the clear lens upgrade.
Step 8: Install Paper Spacers and Reinstall Lens Holder
If you installed the STi-R lens, position the paper spacers according to the included instructions. If you chose a custom etched lens, double-check that the artwork is straight before locking it down. Inspect for fingerprints and dust (use compressed air if needed), then reinstall the lens holder with the two side screws.
Step 9: Transfer Front Trim and Bezel from Old Lens to New Lens
The chrome trim bezel from your factory lens transfers to the new Morimoto replacement lens. Remove the Phillips screws on the back of the old lens, pop the trim ring out, and attach it to the new lens in reverse order. Take care not to scratch the chrome finish during the transfer.
Step 10: Remove Bezel Internals for Halo Access
To mount the halos, you need to access the inner shroud. Remove the small indicator lens (it clips on from the back), the side marker (held by screws and a clip), and then two clips and one screw to free the projector shroud. Keep all hardware organized for reassembly.
Step 11: De-Pin Profile Pivot Halo Connector and Drill Wiring Hole
The Profile Pivot halo uses a two-pin JST connector that needs to be removed so you can thread the wire through the shroud. Press down on the metal retention pins to release the plastic clip from the housing. Then drill a small hole in the front face of the shroud for the halo wiring to pass through.
Profile Pivot halos feature switchback technology that transitions between white (DRL) and amber (turn signal) with a Super Amber brightness boost at the start of each signal cycle. The Hybrid-LED construction is rated for 50,000 hours, so these outlast the vehicle in normal use.
Step 12: Mark and Drill 1/16-Inch Mounting Holes for Halo
The Profile Pivot halo has three mounting tabs with holes pre-drilled. Hold the halo in position on the shroud, mark the tab locations, and drill two 1/16-inch holes per tab (six holes total). Precision matters here because the halo needs to sit centered and flat against the shroud face.
Step 13: Wire Halo to Shroud Using Installation Wire
Cut three pieces of LED Concepts halo installation wire. Thread each piece through the halo mounting tab and the corresponding drilled holes in the shroud, then twist the wire tight from the back side. Cut any excess wire flush so it does not interfere with reassembly.
Step 14: Reinstall Two-Pin JST Connector on Halo Wiring
Using an Exacto blade, pop the metal pin clips back up into position and reinstall the plastic JST connector housing in reverse order. Verify the connection is solid by gently tugging each wire. A loose pin here means a dead halo after the headlight is sealed, and you do not want to reopen it.
Step 15: Reassemble Bezel and Route Halo Wiring Through Housing
Reinstall the shroud, side marker, and indicator lens in reverse order. The Profile Pivot halos have an integrated rubber seal where the wiring exits. Drill a small hole in the back of the headlight housing, insert the wiring with the rubber seal seated firmly, and verify no gaps remain. This seal is what keeps moisture out of the headlight long-term.
Step 16: Apply Morimoto RetroRubber Butyl Sealant
Stretch the RetroRubber butyl into a thin strip and lay it into the perimeter channel of the housing. Be conservative with the amount. Too much butyl can squeeze inward when the lens is pressed on, potentially landing on optical surfaces. A thin, even bead around the entire channel is the goal.
Step 17: Rough-Fit Lens and Bake Again at 260°F for 5 Minutes
This is the point of no return. Before placing the new lens, wipe down all interior surfaces one final time. Never touch the inside of the front lens after this step. Set the lens in position (rough fit), then place the assembly back in the oven at 260°F for 5 minutes to soften the fresh butyl and let it bond to both surfaces.
Step 18: Press Lens Into Housing and Retighten Perimeter Screws
Working quickly while the butyl is warm, press the lens firmly and evenly into the housing. Work all the way around the outside edge to ensure a flush fit with no gaps. Immediately reinstall all the Phillips head perimeter screws while the sealant is still pliable. This combination of butyl bond and mechanical fastening creates a seal that will keep moisture out for years.
Skip the DIY: Morimoto XB LED Headlights for the 370Z
If you prefer a plug-and-play solution over opening your factory headlights, Morimoto offers three complete headlight replacements for the 370Z. The Morimoto XB Evo Hybrid LED headlights feature a gloss-black housing with white DRLs and deliver a massive upgrade over stock with no disassembly required. The XB LED model uses a triple Bi-LED projector setup with sequential DRLs for the most aggressive look. All three options are DOT compliant with UV-coated lenses and aluminum heat sinks for long-term durability.
One thing to keep in mind: the official Morimoto install documentation notes that aftermarket turn signal bulbs may cause hyper flash with the XB LED’s sequential signals. If you run aftermarket turn signals, check compatibility before ordering. You can compare the brightness of Morimoto XB headlights versus stock in our dedicated comparison article. For a broader look at all available options, the 370Z Front LED Upgrade Kit and the 370Z headlight and tail light combo bundle front and rear upgrades together.
Frequently Asked Questions
How do I fix yellowed headlights on a Nissan 370Z?
The most effective fix is a full 370Z headlight lens replacement. Exterior polishing and restoration kits are temporary solutions that wear off within months. Replacing the outer lens with a fresh Morimoto clear replacement lens permanently solves the yellowing problem and restores full light transmission. While the headlight is open, upgrading the internal projector lens and HID bulbs maximizes the improvement.
Can I install halos in my 370Z stock headlights?
Yes. Profile Pivot switchback halos mount directly to the projector shroud inside the 370Z headlight housing. You need to open the headlight (bake method), remove the inner shroud, drill mounting holes, and wire the halos using installation wire. The process adds roughly 30 minutes per headlight beyond a standard lens replacement since the housing is already apart.
What is the difference between a fresnel and clear projector lens?
A fresnel lens uses a ridged surface pattern to diffuse light and soften the beam cutoff. This reduces hotspots but also reduces peak intensity. A clear lens (like the STi-R) transmits light without diffusion, producing a sharper cutoff line and more concentrated beam. In wall-shot testing, the clear lens delivers visibly brighter output with the same bulb.
Do I need to re-aim my headlights after a lens replacement?
If you only replaced the outer lens, your aim should remain unchanged since the projector position stays the same. If you upgraded the internal projector lens (STi-R swap), the new paper spacers may shift the focal point slightly. We recommend checking your aim against a wall after any projector modification and adjusting the headlight aim screws if needed.
How long does a 370Z headlight lens replacement take?
Plan for 2 to 3 hours per headlight if you are doing the full project: lens replacement, projector lens upgrade, bulb swap, and halo install. A straightforward lens-only replacement (no internal upgrades or halos) takes roughly 45 minutes to an hour per side. The oven bake steps account for about 15 minutes total, and the rest is careful disassembly and reassembly work.
Meet the Experts Behind The Retrofit Source
Tyler Jordan – Technical Writer
Tyler works directly with the TRS product R&D team, bringing over a decade of automotive aftermarket lighting experience to every article. An avid enthusiast with hundreds of personal installations under his belt, his content is built on hands-on knowledge from the workbench, not spec sheets.
Caleb Morgan – Marketing Manager
Caleb brings over a decade of automotive lighting industry experience and works with TRS customers daily on the front lines. With hundreds of personal lighting installations and a direct feedback loop from real buyers, his content addresses the questions and problems that actually matter.
