Looking for a 2014 GMC Sierra HID kit that actually delivers? The Morimoto Elite HID kit for the 2014-2015 GMC Sierra 1500 produces more than three times the light output of the stock 9012 halogens, and the install is straightforward enough that most people can handle it in about 30 minutes. In this guide, we walk you through every single step of the installation, explain your ballast and Kelvin options, and cover the one accessory most first-time installers miss: the anti-flicker capacitor link.
What You’ll Learn in This Guide
- Morimoto Elite HID Kit: What’s in the Box and Your Options
- XB35 vs. XB55: Choosing the Right Ballast
- Kelvin Color Options Explained
- Why the Anti-Flicker Capacitor Link Matters on 2014+ GM Trucks
- Step-by-Step Install Guide: 2014-2015 GMC Sierra 1500
- Pro Tips from the Shop Floor
- Frequently Asked Questions
Morimoto Elite HID Kit: What’s in the Box and Your Options
The Morimoto Elite HID system is a complete plug-and-play package that includes everything you need to convert your Sierra’s 9012 halogen headlights to HID. The kit ships with your choice of ballast (XB35 or XB55), a pair of HID bulbs in your chosen Kelvin temperature, a heavy-duty relay harness with TechFlex wrap and molded connectors, and all the mounting hardware. For the 2014-2015 Sierra, you will also want the anti-flicker capacitor link to prevent flickering caused by the truck’s PWM headlight circuit.
XB35 vs. XB55: Choosing the Right Ballast
Morimoto offers two ballast options in the Elite HID system, and the choice comes down to how much output you want versus how long you want the warranty to last.
The XB35 is a 35-watt ballast that delivers roughly three times the light output of your stock halogen bulb. It runs at OEM-standard wattage, which means it produces less heat and comes with a 5-year warranty. For most Sierra owners, the XB35 is the right call. It provides a massive upgrade over stock without pushing the system harder than it needs to go.
The XB55 is a 50-watt ballast for drivers who want maximum output. It runs hotter and carries a 3-year warranty instead of five. Both ballasts feature Morimoto’s separable AMP igniter design. If a component fails down the road, you only replace the igniter instead of the entire ballast assembly. That modular construction is one of the reasons Morimoto ballasts hold up better long-term than cheaper alternatives.
Both ballasts use the same relay harness and bulb connections, so you can swap between XB35 and XB55 later without rewiring anything.
Kelvin Color Options Explained
The Morimoto Elite HID system is available in four Kelvin temperatures. Here is what each one looks like and when it makes sense:
4500K (Warm White): Matches the color of factory-equipped HID vehicles. Excellent in rain, fog, and snow because the warmer tone cuts through moisture better than cooler whites. Best all-weather choice.
5500K (Neutral White): The most popular option. Pure white output with no warm or cool tint. This is the sweet spot between color and luminosity, and it is what we recommend for most installations.
6500K (Cool White): A slight blue tinge. Looks sharp, but there is a trade-off: higher Kelvin temperatures produce slightly lower luminosity. If appearance is your top priority, 6500K delivers. If maximum light output matters more, stick with 5500K or lower.
3000K (Golden Yellow): Fog light applications only. Not recommended for headlights.
Why the Anti-Flicker Capacitor Link Matters on 2014+ GM Trucks
This is the part most first-time installers do not find out about until after they finish the install and turn on the headlights. The 2014 and newer Sierra (and Silverado) use pulse-width modulation (PWM) to dim the headlights for daytime running light mode. That PWM signal bleeds into the headlight circuit and causes HID bulbs to flicker or strobe. The flicker does not appear until the system is fully installed and running, which catches a lot of people off guard.
The fix is the anti-flicker capacitor link. It installs inline between the factory headlight connector and the relay harness input, absorbing the PWM signal before it reaches the ballast. It is plug-and-play, and it cannot hurt anything if installed on a vehicle that does not actually need it. We include it as part of the install process below because on the 2014-2015 Sierra, you will need it.
Step-by-Step Install Guide: 2014-2015 GMC Sierra 1500 HID Kit
This install covers the complete Morimoto Elite HID system with relay harness and anti-flicker capacitor link on a 2014-2015 GMC Sierra 1500. The bulb size is 9012. Total install time is approximately 30 minutes. You will need a drill with a 7/8″ to 1″ bit, a 14mm wrench, a 10mm wrench, a pry tool, rubbing alcohol, and zip ties.
Step 1: Remove the Air Intake
Start on the passenger side. Unclip the MAF sensor connector, loosen the hose clamps on the intake tube, and lift the air box out of the engine bay. This is the same process whether you have the stock intake or an aftermarket one. Removing the air box gives you clear access to the back of the passenger-side headlight housing.
Step 2: Remove Plastic Clips Behind the Passenger-Side Headlight
Use a pry tool to pop out the two plastic clips behind the headlight. Fold the plastic shield down to expose the dust cover on the back of the headlight assembly. These clips pull straight out with gentle prying.
Step 3: Remove the Dust Cover and Halogen Bulb
Turn the dust cover counterclockwise to remove it. Then turn the stock 9012 halogen bulb counterclockwise to release it from the headlight housing. Unplug the factory connector from the back of the bulb and set the halogen bulb aside.
Step 4: Drill the Dust Cover
The HID bulb wiring needs to pass through the dust cover, so you will need to drill a hole in the back of it. Use a 7/8″ to 1″ drill bit. Keep the hole within that size range so the rubber grommet on the HID wiring fits snugly and seals out moisture. Drill through the center of the flat area on the back of the cover.
Step 5: Pass the HID Bulb Wiring Through the Drilled Hole
Pull the locking collar off the HID bulb wiring so it fits through the hole you just drilled. Feed the wiring through from the inside of the dust cover out. Once the wiring is through, you will reinstall the locking collar later to create a weather-tight seal.
Step 6: Clean the HID Bulb with Rubbing Alcohol
Before installing the HID bulb, clean the glass capsule with the rubbing alcohol pad included in the kit. Oils from your fingers will create hot spots on the bulb that cause premature failure. Handle the bulb by its base only after cleaning. This step takes 10 seconds and protects your investment.
Step 7: Install the HID Bulb and Reinstall the Dust Cover
Insert the HID bulb into the headlight housing and twist it clockwise to lock it in place. Tuck the wiring neatly, then reinstall the dust cover by turning it clockwise. Finally, slide the locking collar back into position over the wiring exit point to seal the hole.
Step 8: Lay Out the Relay Harness
Before making any connections, lay out the entire HID relay harness in the engine bay. Identify the battery connection leads (positive and negative), the two relay boxes (one for each headlight), and the OEM input connectors. Route the harness so the battery leads reach the battery terminals and each relay sits near its corresponding headlight. The Morimoto HD relay harness uses TechFlex wrap and molded connectors, so it holds up well in the engine bay long-term.
Step 9: Connect the Relay Harness to the Battery
Remove the battery terminal covers. Connect the positive (red) wire to the 14mm nut stud on the positive terminal. Connect the negative (black) wire to the 10mm nut on the negative terminal. Tighten both connections securely and reinstall the terminal covers. The relay harness draws power directly from the battery rather than pulling it through the factory headlight circuit, which gives the ballasts a clean, stable power supply.
Step 10: Connect the OEM Input Connector
Locate the factory headlight plug inside the headlight cavity (this is the connector you unplugged from the stock halogen bulb in Step 3). Plug the relay harness OEM input connector into this factory plug. This connection tells the relay harness when the headlights are switched on and off. The relay handles the actual power delivery from the battery.
Step 11: Install the Anti-Flicker Capacitor Link
Install the capacitor link inline between the OEM input connector and the relay harness input. It plugs in on both ends with no cutting or splicing. The capacitor absorbs the PWM dimming signal from the 2014+ Sierra’s headlight circuit before it reaches the ballast. Without this component, the HID bulbs will flicker when the truck uses PWM for daytime running lights. Even if your specific truck does not exhibit flickering, the capacitor link cannot cause any harm and is worth installing as a precaution.
Step 12: Ground the Capacitor Link to the Chassis
The capacitor link requires a dedicated chassis ground. Find a suitable grounding point on the vehicle frame or body near the headlight. Use a file or sandpaper to scrape away the paint at the ground point, exposing bare metal for a clean electrical connection. Attach the ground ring terminal and tighten it securely. A poor ground is the most common cause of capacitor link issues, so take the time to prep the surface properly.
Step 13: Connect the Capacitor Link Output to the HID Wiring Harness
Connect the output end of the capacitor link to the OEM input harness coming from the dust cover. This completes the signal chain: factory headlight switch, through the capacitor link (which cleans the signal), into the relay harness (which switches battery power), and out to the ballast.
Step 14: Mount the HID Ballast and Connect Plugs
Mount the XB ballast in a secure location in the engine bay. Avoid mounting near exhaust components or anywhere that sees excessive heat. Connect both dust cover plugs to the ballast. On the passenger side, the shorter connector reaches the ballast directly. Make sure both connections click firmly into place.
Step 15: Route and Connect the Driver-Side Harness Wire
Run the harness wire from the passenger side under the plastic panel that sits between the radiator and the grille, across to the driver-side headlight. Connect the wire to the driver-side ballast and make all remaining plug connections. If there is an unused OEM connector, zip-tie it out of the way so it does not rattle or contact any moving parts.
Step 16: Test the System
Turn on the headlights. Both HID bulbs should fire within one to two seconds. If one side does not light up, turn the headlights off and check every connection on that side: bulb connector, ballast plugs, relay harness connections, OEM input, and capacitor link. In our experience, a failed first light-up is almost always a loose connection rather than a defective component.
Step 17: Zip-Tie Wiring and Reinstall the Air Box
Once both sides are confirmed working, zip-tie all loose wiring. Keep everything secured away from exhaust manifolds, belts, and any moving components. Reinstall the air intake and air box in reverse order: set the air box in place, tighten the hose clamps, and reconnect the MAF sensor. Double-check that no wires are pinched under the air box before closing the hood.
Pro Tips from the Shop Floor
After installing thousands of HID kits across every domestic truck platform, here are the things we wish every first-time installer knew before starting:
The capacitor link is not optional on 2014+ GM trucks. We see this question daily from customers who skip it during their initial order, finish the install, and then call us about flickering headlights. The 2014 and newer Sierra and Silverado use PWM to dim the headlights for DRL mode, and that PWM signal causes HID flickering that only shows up after the system is fully installed. Order the capacitor link with your kit and install it from the start. It takes two extra minutes and saves you from pulling the whole system apart later.
The relay harness has two independent relays for a reason. Each side of the Morimoto relay harness runs its own relay. If one relay ever fails, the other headlight stays operational. This is not a feature you will find on cheaper relay harnesses that run both sides through a single relay. It also means troubleshooting is easier: if only one side is out, you know the issue is isolated to that side’s relay, ballast, or bulb.
If you need to replace a ballast component, check the igniter first. Morimoto XB35 and XB55 ballasts use separable AMP igniters. The igniter is the small module that connects to the ballast body. If your ballast stops firing, the igniter is the most common failure point, and you can replace just that part instead of buying an entire new ballast. This is especially relevant for XB55 owners, since higher wattage puts more stress on the igniter over time.
5500K is the performance sweet spot. There is a real trade-off between Kelvin temperature and luminosity. Higher Kelvin (4500K to 6500K) means slightly lower light output. At 5500K, you get the best balance of clean white color and maximum brightness. If you are choosing purely for output, 4500K actually produces the most lumens, but most people prefer the look of 5500K.
Complete Your GMC Sierra Lighting Setup
If you are upgrading the headlights, it is worth looking at the rest of your Sierra’s lighting while you are at it. Browse the full HID lighting catalog for fog light kits, or check out the complete range of HID bulbs if you need replacements down the road.
Frequently Asked Questions
What bulb size does the 2014-2015 GMC Sierra 1500 use?
The 2014 and 2015 GMC Sierra 1500 uses a 9012 bulb for the low beam headlights. This is the same bulb size for both model years. The 9012 HID kit from Morimoto is a direct-fit replacement that uses the factory bulb socket without any adapters.
Do I need a relay harness for an HID kit on the GMC Sierra?
Yes, a relay harness is strongly recommended for all domestic trucks, including the 2014-2015 GMC Sierra. The relay harness draws power directly from the battery instead of pulling it through the factory headlight circuit. This gives the HID ballasts a clean, stable power supply and prevents voltage drop issues that can cause slow warm-up or dim output. Learn more about how an HID relay harness works.
Why are my HID headlights flickering on my 2014 GMC Sierra?
Flickering is caused by the truck’s pulse-width modulation (PWM) circuit for the daytime running lights. The PWM signal interferes with the HID ballast and causes the bulbs to strobe or flicker. Install the Morimoto anti-flicker capacitor link inline with the OEM input connector to absorb the PWM signal. This is a known issue on all 2014+ GM trucks (Sierra, Silverado, Tahoe, Suburban) and the capacitor link is the standard fix.
What is the difference between the Morimoto XB35 and XB55 ballast?
The XB35 runs at 35 watts (OEM standard) and carries a 5-year warranty. The XB55 runs at 50 watts for maximum output and carries a 3-year warranty. Both use the same separable AMP igniter design and the same wiring connections. Most people choose the XB35 because it provides more than 3x the output of stock halogens with a longer warranty. The XB55 is for drivers who want every last lumen and are willing to accept higher operating temperatures and a shorter warranty.
How long does it take to install an HID kit on a 2014-2015 GMC Sierra?
The complete install, including the relay harness and anti-flicker capacitor link, takes approximately 30 minutes. The most time-consuming parts are removing the air intake (Step 1), drilling the dust cover (Step 4), and routing the wiring to the driver side (Step 15). If you have basic hand tools and are comfortable working under the hood, this is a very manageable DIY project.
Meet the Experts Behind The Retrofit Source
Tyler Jordan – Technical Writer
Tyler works directly with the TRS product R&D team, bringing over a decade of automotive aftermarket lighting experience to every article. An avid enthusiast with hundreds of personal installations under his belt, his content is built on hands-on knowledge from the workbench, not spec sheets.
Caleb Morgan – Marketing Manager
Caleb brings over a decade of automotive lighting industry experience and works with TRS customers daily on the front lines. With hundreds of personal lighting installations and a direct feedback loop from real buyers, his content addresses the questions and problems that actually matter.
